Malheur Cave, Princeton, OR

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“There is no such uncertainty as a sure thing.” – Robert Burns

Welcome back! If you googled this fascinating landmark and this page came up, and you just so happened to click on it, thank you! All the information presented here is easily found elsewhere, so you reading this is truly awesome. (Except for my unique photos presented in this here blog, so have a look, but don’t go using them as your own. That’s just rude, and unnecessary.)

Malheur Cave is a strange lava tube in the high desert of Eastern Oregon, 52 miles from Burns, the nearest township boasting more than a cafe/gas station/saloon/general store combination. Caution: before visiting this iconic Harney County location, give a shout out to the Robert Burns Masonic Lodge #97, or you might stumble upon one of the fraternity’s Masonic Masters degree ceremony within this eldritch cavern.

The Indian Legend of Malheur Cave

“Long before the white man came to this country, when Malheur Lake was high and flowed out through the old river channel past the Malheur Cave and was the headwaters of the south fork of the Malheur River, a large party of Paiutes, warriors, women and children, were camped on the border of Malheur Lake while the women gathered roots, herbs and seeds to dry for winter food – An epidemic came which was taking the lives of many, especially the children. The Paiute medicine men were unable to cope with it. There was much misery, women weeping, children dying and mothers grumbling against the priests and beginning to doubt their potency.

It happened that a group of Bannocks from Idaho, or other points east were visiting at the camp with the Paiutes. The medicine men, who were becoming discredited and feared they would lose the respect and confidence of the Paiutes, in their extremity to save their faces and reputation, accused the visiting Bannocks of having cast a spell over the sick persons, and so eloquently pleaded their cause that the Paiute warriors attacked the Bannocks and all but exterminated the entire party.

However, one or more, at least a small remnant of the Bannock party escaped death and returned to Idaho. Upon being told of the cruel massacre of their tribesmen and the reason for it. Bannock warriors assembled a large party and started for Malheur Lake with the intention of avenging the death of their fellows. When the invading party was yet several days off and in camp, a coyote slipped into camp and overheard the boasts of the Bannocks and their intention to kill the entire band of Paiutes.

The coyote, being a friend of the Paiutes, ran ahead of the invaders and warned the Paiutes, telling them of the overwhelming numbers and advised the Paiutes to take refuge in some safe place as they could not hope to withstand the invaders. The coyote told the Paiutes of Malheur Cave with its living water, where even though they were less in numbers, they could hold out against the greater odds.

The Paiutes heeded the advice of the coyote, gathered up their supply of food and camp equipment and hurried to the cave. The entrance was barricaded with rocks and, although the warring Bannocks discovered the Paiutes, they were able to keep them off.

At first the Bannocks believed they could starve the Paiutes out not knowing of the water and food supplies and remained around the mouth of the cave for days, sending hundreds of obsidian-pointed arrows into the entrance and around the mouth of the cave. After many days the invading party withdrew and the coyote followed them on their journey for a few days, finally returning to his Paiute friends with the assurance that their enemy was well out of the country and it was safe for them to come out.

The Paiutes removed only enough of the rocks to provide an exit, and that is how the entrance was found barricaded by the first white men and the reason for the presence of hundreds of arrowheads at its mouth and for some distance back into the cave. That, also is why the Paiutes, in the long ago, revered the coyote and would not kill him. He was considered the wisest, slyest and most cunning of animals.

In the days before the coming of the white man, Paiute Indians believed in transmigration of souls to the coyote and later to a heaven, where all were restored to youth and lived forever midst plentiful wild game, flowers, trees, lakes and streams.

Many, many years ago, long before the white man came to this country, when Malheur Lake was high and flowed out through the old river channel past the Malheur Cave and was the headwaters of the south fork of the Malheur River, a large party of Paiutes, warriors, women and children, were camped on the border of Malheur Lake while the women gathered roots, herbs and seeds to dry for winter food – An epidemic came which was taking the lives of many, especially the children. The Paiute medicine men were unable to cope with it. There was much misery, women weeping, children dying and mothers grumbling against the priests and beginning to doubt their potency.

It happened that a group of Bannocks from Idaho, or other points east were visiting at the camp with the Paiutes. The medicine men, who were becoming discredited and feared they would lose the respect and confidence of the Paiutes, in their extremity to save their faces and reputation, accused the visiting Bannocks of having cast a spell over the sick persons, and so eloquently pleaded their cause that the Paiute warriors attacked the Bannocks and all but exterminated the entire party.

However, one or more, at least a small remnant of the Bannock party escaped death and returned to Idaho. Upon being told of the cruel massacre of their tribesmen and the reason for it. Bannock warriors assembled a large party and started for Malheur Lake with the intention of avenging the death of their fellows. When the invading party was yet several days off and in camp, a coyote slipped into camp and overheard the boasts of the Bannocks and their intention to kill the entire band of Paiutes.

The coyote, being a friend of the Paiutes, ran ahead of the invaders and warned the Paiutes, telling them of the overwhelming numbers and advised the Paiutes to take refuge in some safe place as they could not hope to withstand the invaders. The coyote told the Paiutes of Malheur Cave with its living water, where even though they were less in numbers, they could hold out against the greater odds.

The Paiutes heeded the advice of the coyote, gathered up their supply of food and camp equipment and hurried to the cave. The entrance was barricaded with rocks and, although the warring Bannocks discovered the Paiutes, they were able to keep them off.

At first the Bannocks believed they could starve the Paiutes out not knowing of the water and food supplies and remained around the mouth of the cave for days, sending hundreds of obsidian-pointed arrows into the entrance and around the mouth of the cave. After many days the invading party withdrew and the coyote followed them on their journey for a few days, finally returning to his Paiute friends with the assurance that their enemy was well out of the country and it was safe for them to come out.

The Paiutes removed only enough of the rocks to provide an exit, and that is how the entrance was found barricaded by the first white men and the reason for the presence of hundreds of arrowheads at its mouth and for some distance back into the cave. That, also is why the Paiutes, in the long ago, revered the coyote and would not kill him. He was considered the wisest, slyest and most cunning of animals.

In the days before the coming of the white man, Paiute Indians believed in transmigration of souls to the coyote and later to a heaven, where all were restored to youth and lived forever midst plentiful wild game, flowers, trees, lakes and streams. (Masonic Lodge #97 website, http://www.burnslodge.org/malheur.html)

What to bring to tour the Maheur Cave:

  • Flashlight or Lantern, the brighter the better
  • Jacket, even when it’s summer
  • 1 or more travel companions, this thing is CREEPY
  • Good hiking shoes, rocks are everywhere (preferably waterproof, since water levels could be high)
  • Recommended: A Kayak or small boat, to explore the lake in the back

Take a look below to experience my track to the back of the lava tube.

WARNING: This cave is relatively stable, but rocks do often fall from the “ceiling” so tread with caution, and don’t be a jerk (graffiti, damage, or otherwise). Preserve this for the future generations to enjoy it outside your drunken or high stupor, and allow the rest of the world to experience this little piece of history in an unsuspecting location in Eastern Oregon.

My family came out from Michigan, so what better way to show them the wonders of the land than take them to such a unique place just outside town?

As you look at the mouth of the cave, it’s quite unexpected. A walk down to the entrance as you gaze among the rolling hills of Eastern Oregon gives a unique perspective to this cavern.

The entrance to the cave is approximately 8 feet tall. Remember, when the Westerner found this site, it was well barricaded with stones, from providing shelter for the Paiute Tribe.

This is the back of the cave, where the underground spring provides fresh water for a lake.

This is my nephew and my sister’s micro Australian shepherd, Nikka, trudging through the water.

As you wander toward the back, you will notice many rock piles. This is from the instability in the lava tube where the ceiling has fallen. Be aware of your surroundings, and trudge lightly in case you happen to be around when some of thos collapses.

We brought plenty of flashlights for the group, so it wasn’t difficult to stick together.

This is my brother, Luke, being a major dork. The cave is quite moist, so be prepared for the drips throughout.

#represent! Mammoth Lakes, CA is another great west coast stop for the wonders of the natural world.

Remember, contact the Masonoc lodge #97 before you go. Maybe they’ll share some history with you!

@leaderofnerds,

Thanks for reading!

Until Next Time,

-Jessica

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